Saturday, November 17, 2007

Liberal Media - not in Baghdad...

It may sound hard to believe, but one the thing that is not talked about here in Iraq is U.S. politics. Don’t get me wrong, you will hear an occasional light-hearted jab directed toward the President and of course Hillary is fair game, but for the most part there is no serious conversation about the Presidential race, the senate and Lord knows congress doesn't make the list. So, for a guy who loves politics and has spent the last two years in DC, this is pleasant surprise. Though I haven’t spend a lot of time thinking about it, it wasn't until today that it occurred to me why we are not more interested in the race here: because there is no media here telling us we have to be.

This afternoon I was showing my pictures from the trip to Karbala. Being a native Iraqi he was able to teach me about the Prophet Muhammad and the holy site the Shrine of Husayn ibn Ali. The pictures depict us at different stages of the day such as traveling in the Blackhawk, being received the Chief of Police and then by the Governor of Karbala, the town and its people, and three farms. In addition to these planned visits two press conferences were held. It was when I was thumbing (clicking to be exact) through the pictures that I had an “ah ha” moment; a revelation about the media.



There are some important things to note about this meeting in Karbala. First of all Karbala is the only province that has been completely handed over to the Iraqi Military. The handover happened took place on October 29. The purpose of our trip was to demonstrate to the Governor, the people of Iraq, and the rest of the world that the U.S. Government is the first in line to establish business relationships. As mentioned in my previous entry we were accompanied by representative from the Prime Minister’s office, the Department of Defense, the State Department and members of the U.S. business community. To capture this historic event many – the rise of a province heavily affected by the way – two press conferences were held. Please see the picture below and tell me what is missing.

It is a bit small, but what you don't see is CNN, MSNBC, BBC, ABC, NBC, CBS, AP, Washington Post, LA Times, Fox News....but wait...this is a signficant event. The United States Government is doing what it has been slammed for not doing; rebuilding Iraq.

Friday, November 16, 2007

Security, Security, Security...

Due to security, I am making a few minor changes. I have removed the "Friends Blogs" link and the ability to comment. Sounds silly, but this is done for safety of the commentor. This might change, but right now any information is useful information.

Thursday, November 15, 2007

One Crazy Day...


To be honest, I had no intention of making another entry. After the phone call this morning (see previous entry), I was resigned to take cover and wait for the emotional storm to pass. Fortunately for me however life in the IZ doesn't work like that. The reason I am making a second entry is because the experience I had today here in Iraq I really want to share this experience.



So, as the story goes I got a phone call last night asking if I was up for a trip out of the IZ. This was a luck break for me but since none of the other guys in the office will set foot out, I got the call and quickly snapped up the opportunity. Now, I need to be very careful about what information I give out from the military perspective, but I am comfortable saying that I spent the day with a high ranking official from the Department of Defense, the Governor of Karbala, a high ranking official from the Prime Minister's office ,and media like you wouldn't believe. The purpose of meeting is to show that Americans, and eventually other countries, are interested in investing in Iraq's business.


Early this morning we boarded a blackhawk to Karbala. I have never flown in a helicopter nor did I have any desire to do so, but I sould not show weakness. I was expecting a horribly bumpy ride, but it was quite different. It was smooth the entire way. The flight out lasted awhile (can't even tell how long), but it was awesome. I was finally able to see what Baghdad looks like, what the Iraqi countryside looks like and on top of that some pretty amazing castles and mosques. The evidence of the 2003 war is very obvious. For me, when I think of war or targets, I think of military installations, leadership centers, or some other high profile location. However this is not necessarily the case. As a result you see the impact of the bombings all over the country. I could go on and on, but in short, it was an amazing trip. I was privileged to have spent five hours with the leaderships of the US, Iraq and of Karbala. We toured farms, factories, and small villages. Because of the immense security force surrounding us, we were able to walk around without personal armor and to interact with the Iraqi's. I took several pictures but unfortunately, I cannot post them. I did post one of me, but only because I am so damn cute in it.


What I learned from today is that our lives are dynamic yet not indefinite. After a rough morning I had the opportunity to overcome and to give of myself to my company, the US government, and to Iraq. Don't get me wrong, I am still sad but I still have a great friends and family.

A Significant Change...


I hate to just push this out there, but after a great run Michael and I have decided to part. This was a very difficult decision for both of us and we appreciate all who have supported us over seven year history. I know there may be some questions and a strong desire to offer support, and in time I think it will be appreciated.

To Michael I want to say how proud I am of you. You have changed so much in so many ways. you will always be in my heart. When I met this shy boy in 2000 I felt as if the whole world had stopped and now, 7 + years later, I am having the same feeling.

Monday, November 12, 2007

Life in the (Green Zone) International Zone…

Today marks the completion of my 26th day here in Iraq. It some ways it has been very difficult, yet in others it has been rewarding beyond explanation. I know that I have attempted to do the series thing before and failed, but I want to try again. Unless something more interesting or noteworthy comes along, I going to talk about my experiences thus far. This is however going to be interactive. My first entry will be "No Complaining in Iraq". From there, it is up to you...the reader. Immediately below this entry I have listed several topics that I would like to eventually expand upon, but I want you to choose the topic. At the end, simply comment, with name or anonymous, it’s up to you. Also, if you have something specifically you want to ask or you want me to expand upon, feel free to let me know that as well.

No complaining in Iraq

One of the things that you catch onto first here is that as American civilians you do not complain in Iraq. Before I explain in any detail I think it might be helpful to give you an idea of what my life consists of here in Iraq (the things I would complain about...but I'm not!).

First off, I work an incredible amount of hours per day and after nearly four weeks in country I have yet to take a day off. Second, the living conditions are not ideal to the western world, for example, I am routinely chased around my room by the biggest cockroaches you have ever seen. Third, the only place to have a drink is a tiny bar on the camp where the guy pushing swill goes by "get-er-done". Four, you cannot drink the water anywhere in Iraq. Five, I live between two practice firing ranges for the military. You have not heard shit til you've been blown out of your bed by the sound of a 50 Caliber. And six, helicopters will damn near land on your roof anytime of the day or night. Now, I will explain why you, as an American civilian do not complain.

As an American living and working for an American firm here in Baghdad I have the absolute full force protection by the U.S. Military. This may sound a bit trite, but I assure you that from the first step off of the plane you can feel it. It is a surreal feeling to be in a war zone in one of the must tumultuous periods in modern history and have no concern for your personal safety because the presence of 160,000+ soldiers making sure that you go home alive is palpable.

Prior to coming to Iraq I had little use for the military. I did not come for a military family nor did I really know anyone that did. To me the military was a place to send an unruly boy. That said, on the list of things that have changed in my life since coming to Iraq, that is number one. It gives me chills each time I look up and see soldiers hanging out of helicopters or the one kid sitting in the cat-bird seat as M1A1 Abrams rolling into the red zone (yeah, its what you think). I honestly don't know how they do it. As a comparison, when I travel out into the red zone I have a task force (I can't tell you who or how many) that can and will take out a small village should anything obstruct my path. When I travel I am in personal body armor from head to toe and the coordinates of my travels are plotted out days in advance. The irony is that these soldiers who put there lives on the line for us each day make a fraction of what we make and live in conditions much more sparse than anything I have seen. I would never excuse an outright crime conducted by anyone, but for these guys, I would certainly look away as they punched the shit out of anyone who suggested that they are baby killers, rapist, or murders simply because they are soldiers serving in Iraq - read blogs, this is a common sediment.

The other side of the coin here is the Iraqi people. Regardless of how you feel about the war, these people are literally caught in the middle. From Washington DC it was so easy to sit at the Wonderland and to make grand statements about the war, the administration or the obscene amount of money being wasted on the reconstruction. However, from this view point, it is quite different. I realize that anyone reading this is likely to be left leaning, and I don't mean to offend anyone, but this is not a war anymore. It is not about just about politics, religion, or ethnicity; it is about the survival of a nation and future of the Middle East. I remember earlier this year becoming numb to war information...soldiers killed...car bombs...insurgents...surge...I had heard enough, the war wasn't real. That all changed my first week in Baghdad and for me it was sobering. You see, there is this really big kid (22 +/-) 7' tall gentle giant that works with me. I was pretty new, so I didn't talk much. He was a nice guy who each morning would walk in and shook your hand and talk to you about your morning then turn around and do the same thing in the evening before he left for the day. Anyway, I began to notice one day that he (can't use his name) was being visited by everyone in the office. I could not hear what they were saying, but I would hear him give a sincere thank you and soft "enshala" which translates to "Gods Will". What I quickly learned was that my new co-worker and now friend had the week before experienced a death in his family because of the war. I can't tell you the specifics, but you did hear about it and it was not a "military" action. He went on with his day, his week, and his life because here, you have too. Upon discussing this with another Iraqin in the office I was informed "John, every Iraqi you will meet while you are here has lost a brother, sister, mother, father, or child to this war. He must continue as must all continue or we should all leave." I was dumbfounded. I don't mean to suggest that they are cold to death, because they are not. For them, they grieve, but they go on. They are very well aware of their mortality and that because they are working for the "Americans" they are targets, their lives are literally at risk everytime they walk through a gate. One young man in our office recently married and he did not tell his wife where he worked until after they exchanged vows because her family would not allow the marriage to happen.

I may have taken the long way around to make this point, but for all of the hardships that I must endure to be here, the one thing I am assured is my safety and protection. The irony is that of everyone here in this country, the American civilian is the most privileged and least deserving of his rewards. So, I hope that wasn't too long---it looks like a lot of words.

Shhh, don't say Green Zone.

Cruising the Red Zone.

"LOCKDOWN, LOCKDOWN, LOCKDOWN...-"

Surprisingly... no politics.

Members of the Coalition get armour, Iraqis are not members of the Coalition.

Money, who needs money?

This is not a life.

The International Zone is NOT Iraq or Baghdad.

Who is the enemy?

Being stupid will get you killed.

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Touchdown Baghdad.....



This is pretty much a required picture for every American that touches down in Baghdad. In this picture I am in the green zone in the middle of Saddam's parade ground. This is road in which the troops would walk by Saddam's presidential box to be inspected. This is a very interesting monument because like everything else in Baghdad, it celebrates war.

Heading to the Red Zone now, so more later.

Love everyone!